RPCV Nepal (2012-2014) currently interning in Lusaka, Zambia with the State Department for the summer

Thursday, October 31, 2013

election shtuff

The upcoming elections are causing problems. Not just for me, but for everybody. The politics are extremely complicated and I don’t really understand it that well but the skinny of it is that Nepal has no constitution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Politics_of_Nepal explains this better than I can.

These elections (to take place on November 19) will hopefully give the country a shot at developing a constitution for themselves. Although how Nepal will all of a sudden elect a leader and develop this within the next couple years is beyond me. Moving on….I believe in other blogs I have mentioned that Nepal loves its bandhs. For those that forget, these are transportation strikes that can shut down certain roads/areas of the country or the entire country. Well for the elections, there are TEN DAYS of entire country wide bandhs. This literally means no transportation. At all. No buses, cars ,motorcycles, rickshaws, pony-carts, nuthin. From November 11-21st, the entire country is essentially shut down. This also means that all Nepal PC volunteers are on standfast, which basically means don’t leave village (not that we would have any way of getting anywhere anyways) and that all other PC country travel to Nepal is restricted. Additionally I might have mentioned in my last blog that my parents were supposed to come to Nepal right smack dab in the middle of the elctions? That’s right, they were supposed to arrive in country on November 15th, a day when no transportation is running and I had no way of meeting them anywhere, unless I wanted to walk to Pokhara, which I guess would take me 3 solid days. Thank the lord almighty they changed their travel plans but I had a sad 3 couple days where I thought I wouldn’t see them until March. I guess it sounds a little ridiculous looking back, but I had my heart set on seeing them middle of November  and then to all of a sudden have their entire trip cancelled was just really sad. Its still going to be extremely iffy, as they are now coming on the 22nd, the day after the bandhs are finished. Hopefully. Otherwise I need to rent a horse or something and get my self to Pokhara somehow. I got off my bus from Pokhara the other day into a 400 person Maoist rally in my bazaar town and the police are everywhere. Its gunna get a little rowdy in the larger towns I think. Additionally, the new volunteers are supposed to get sworn in during elections, so Peace Corps has been working around that as well.

Other things I’ve been doing at site: Map names are all done! Somehow we missed 5 countries in the process of painting so we had to go back today and add those and tomorrow we will write those names. Its almost doneeeeee. Need to border the whole thing and then paint a clear finish on top to set it all.

My cat came back! Biraalo is now around 4 months old I think but he’s super friendly and now I have a little cuddle buddy. I tried to find him cat food in Pokhara last time I went but had no success, so he eats a lot of milk and roti and daal bhat and the occasional spider. He actually somehow climbed up into my ceiling the other day and ate a dead rat, so hes being useful and I haven’t heard the rats since.

My neighbor had her baby! He just got named today. In Nepali culture the baby doesn’t have a name for the first 11 days and on the 11th day it receives a name, usually from an elder in the community. They named him Pranjul (which kind of reminds me of pringle). Hes adorable though and I’ve spent a lot of time recently at my neighbors house holding him. We had him at our house last night to rub cooking oil all over him….Apparently this makes the baby strong and a hard worker later in life. So baby got covered in cooking oil. They had a puja for the baby naming ceremony and we had snacks afterward: some goat meat and a vegetable dish. I swear to god if I had known the sorts of meat/meat parts I would in eat in Nepal a year ago, I wouldn’t have believed it. Well mostly I eat the meat because I have very little protein in my diet but sometimes I actually really like it.

Other random things:  Got offered a whole pineapple on my run the other day. Allergies are still out of control, accidentally took a nighttime cold medicine this morning, so was out of commission for a couple hours. Watched part of Pirates of Caribbean on my Nepali TV the other day which was a nice treat. Started a small oil fire in my kitchen the other day and almost blew it up. I fell backwards off my tiny wooden stool which was good otherwise I think my face would have gotten blown off.

 Happy Halloween!

Biraalo and I

Just climbing into my ceiling

Aamaa and biraalo take a nap

Cooking oil covered baby!

Baby Pranjul and I in my kitchen

tail end of saarpa!

....and we have names!

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

MST and the start of the holiday season

Phew it has been a busy month since i last posted! Actually the busiest I’ve been in Nepal. I celebrated 2 major Nepali festivals (Teej and Dashain) with my family, traveled to Kathmandu for my Mid-Service Conference with all the other 199ers and then went back to Sindulpalchowk district for 8 days to give nursery bed training to the new volunteers! Also this is going to be a very long post, sorry.

my favorite hajuraama and I during Teej
I celebrated Teej with all the women in my family about a month  back. This included me getting stuffed into a sari again and getting gawked at in town, but the dance program we went to was fun to watch. The sari was actually seriously painful…theres so much fabric, half of it is stuffed down your stomach. My sari was bejeweled with little sequins all over that repeatedly rubbed against my stomach for a solid 5 hours. Fun stuff. The second day of Teej there was a big puja  in my village with all the women. Giving tika and flowers and fruit and candles to the various Hindu gods allowed the women who were married to pray for good marriage in the years to come, and for the non-married girls to pray for a good husband.

Map news: The map is going fantastically, I’d say we’re about three-quarters done with painting. Of course since all my paints together cost around 10 dollars, they aren’t exactly the best quality. This has led to some repainting of countries…the nice bright green color I imagined turned out to be a pea green color, and the yellow I was given may or may not be 5+ years old and is more like goldenrod. Alas, I’ve gotta deal with my limited budget, because I don’t have money to buy a new yellow. I was able to attain some funding from the local power company for this, so Im only using a little of my own money for all the supplies.

almost done!
The first day of painting, excuse my language, but the first day was a real shitshow. We did all the red countries first, and there was red paint everywhere. I mean literally everywhere. In countries that aren’t red, on their desks, the floor, on their clothes. This is after I covered the floor and desks with newspaper too. These kids, though they are 11-12 years old, have never really colored or painted before. After a child accidentally painted over all of the great lakes around Michigan, I had to teach them all to color within the lines. I do have to realize though, although I know where countries meet and where lakes might be, these kids do not. They don’t recognize Michigan when they see Michigan. So its been a learning process, especially for me. My tendency to be anal and a perfectionist have been kicked out the door on this project. It’s the kids project, not mine, so its not going to be 100% perfect, and its been good for me to watch them make their own mistakes and not try and fix it right away. Oh also, I forgot to mention: all the paint we use is oil-based…which means me and my twelve 7th graders are dousing our hands in gasoline each day. It’s the only thing that removes the paint. I cant get the smell off me. Some kid accidentally spilled half the bottle on my pants the other day, while another liter or so went directly into the nearby stream. I also ran out of cups the second day because I thought we would be able to wash and re-use them. Nope. The gasoline ate right through the flimsy tea cups I had bought. So I emptied some of my medicine bottles from home, and we’re using those right now. This is also definitely a lesson for me in resourcefulness.
Each subsequent day of painting has gotten better and its not quite so messy anymore. The paint is restricted to the wall for the most part and the school staff has been stopping by periodically and saying how good it looks.

My agriculture group and I finally installed our micro-irrigation the other day as well! I think I wrote a blog back in freakin April about how I was going to give my training soon. Well fast forward 6 months and the day finally came. The night before I was about to clean all the tubes and filters and make sure everything worked properly, except that I couldn’t find the kit anywhere. I finally asked my grandma and she told me she gave it away cause she didn’t know what it was. Sheesh. Thank god she only gave it to my uncle, who is fortunately in my ag group, but geez oh man what if she had given it away to some rando? It cost about 1800 Rs, which is a lot of money in Nepal.
installing micro-irrigation

 I’d say the training was more of a refresher course for my ag group (some of them had been trained in it a couple years back), but it still went well. It started out rough, as I arrived at my meeting and my ag president informed me we didn’t have 80 seedlings to plant. So like the adult I am, I sulked in the back for a solid 15 minutes because this was seriously the third time my training had been put off. But then magically my sister and another lady came running back with 80 cauliflower seedlings and we got to work! I don’t think it was my perfect vision of how a training should go but I’d say they learned something, and now we have 80 cauliflower seedlings planted. I’ve been checking on it each day after working at the school and it seems to be functioning normally so wahoooooo.
I got yelled at for this (monkey temple in kathmandu)
Finally attained my visa for India (as those of you who have read my facebook updates this was quite a process) right before my training started. Which was great timing, as PC now has my passport to renew my Nepali visa for the upcoming year. Mid Service Training was awesome…it wasn’t so much as a training as a reflection over the past year and gearing up for the year ahead. They also put us in a swank hotel. My roommate and I Voranan and I discovered American VH1 on the TV and proceeded to spend most of our free time watching Miley Cyrus swing on a wrecking ball and other weird music videos we have missed out on. During training,  Peace Corps had us do an activity called MyServicein6: we had to write about our past year in 6 words only. It was really interesting see what everyone had to say. We also had an RPCV (returned pcv) panel come and talk to us about their experiences. They had all finished their service within the past 2 years or so and it was great to see how they got to where they were today. Peace Corps also set up a “volunteer social” for us with JICA, KOICA, and VSO, which are basically the Japanese, Korean, and British versions of PC, respectively. We all got to mingle over French toast (thank you hotel) and hear about what we were all doing in our sites and stuff. It was good networking and I would love to partner with some of them in the future.
199ers and American staff at our Country Directors house for dinner!
The morning after training I headed up to Sindulpalchowk district with 2 other ag volunteers to give various trainings to Group 200. It was a terribly nauseating ride because one of us literally had to sit in the trunk area of the jeep at all times, and at one point my friends entire container of Belgian nightcrawler worms fell all over me but hey, it was free transportation. Over the next week I proceeded to teach on the making of compost tea and how to construct 2 types of nursery beds. I also got to see my old homestay family!!! It was so great. It was seriously pure bliss up in Chautara and Chhap. I forgot how amazingly gorgeous it is up there and how much I’ve missed mountains at my permanent site. I got to spend some solo time walking around with my Ipod and just soaking in the scenery. Also having all of Chhap tell me how good my Nepali was didn’t hurt either. It was awesome to be able to communicate with my family and I spent 2 days with them just hanging out. My sister gave me henna and I played with baby goats and baby cows and ate saag, which is my favorite nepali vegetable, but it doesn’t grow that well where I live now. I spent 1 night at my familys house but the other time I was up at the training center with the staff hanging out and helping out. I also was there for Group 200’s permanent site announcements! They were so nervous and it reminded me exactly how I was over a year ago. It was especially exciting because 4 of the new volunteers will get placed in our districts. It was really fun to get to know them all over the course of the week, and I’m sad that they are placed so far away! Most of their districts are farther west than ours and there isn’t really a direct road that leads to them.
Sunset in Chaap
After training I had an unexpected extra day in Kathmandu because all of the buses to Pokhara were full. Its full on tourist season right now so Thamel and all the tourist areas of KTM are extremely crowded. It was a day well spent though: I got a 14 dollar hour-long massage and got to meet up with a friend from Nepal who went to Bucknell with me! We actually didn’t know each other at school but we had a mutual friend in common.  It was fun to talk about Bucknell and just random things about Nepal. And I got to eat a legitimate Mexican quesadilla for dinner so yeah, good day.

I traveled from Kathmandu to my site in 1 day which isn’t normally advisable because it is miserable but I had to get back to celebrate Dashain with my family, the biggest Hindu holiday of the year. I left KTM at 7am and got to my house at 6:30pm. Also something kept biting me on the bus to Pokhara and so I had these massive itchy welts everywhere and ended up having to take a Benadryl which didn’t go so well for me later on. I switched buses in Pokhara and promptly passed out for 2 hours and was extremely groggy the rest of the day. My fam was super excited to see me when I got home (I had been gone 22 days!) so I kind of felt bad when I went to bed at 8am but I couldn’t function that well. It reminded me of the time I took Tylenol PM on an airplane on the way back from Nicaragua which was a TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE. I felt like I was floating all over the place and just needed to be horizontal.
I celebrated Dashain the past 2 days with my family here. Unfortunately it has been raining literally nonstop for the past 2 days, so celebrations have been somewhat subdued. I wrote a whole blog post last year about swinging on the giant swing in Chhaap over a burning buffalo carcass but our ping isn’t even set up yet!  Most of my extended family is here though, so we all exchanged tikka and money. You only give tikka/money to people younger than you, so little kids make bank during Dashain. We also played quite a bit of card games and gambled with money, and in general just hung out.  I spent about 4 hours this afternoon reading in my sleeping bag, happy as a clam. Tihaar, the next huge Nepali holiday, is in 2 weeks, so I’m kind of waiting for the festival season to be over to get back to work on the map and other projects. The parents come in a month!
And now I will leave you with a small snippet of a conversation with my grandma (aama) from earlier tonight:

Aama: My eye is burning, I think I got hot pepper in it.
Me: Well did you have hot pepper on your hands?
Aama: No, but it hurts.
Me: Go quickly and splash some water in it.
Aama: I’m going to go put some butter in it.
Me:…………………..

And then she went to the kitchen and put straight butter in her eye.


-Alex