Peace Corps at the triathlon |
I woke up the next morning feeling like I was running a
fever, but thought it was from my sunburn (I got pretty burnt while running)
and being dehydrated. Wrong. The next 4 days were the sickest I have probably
been in my entire life. I guess those stomach pains before the race were signs
of what was to come. That stomach bug I got when I got back from India? This
was about 10x worse. The worst part was that I was in Pokhara so I didn’t have
access to my medical kit with all my meds and couldn’t take my temperature. I
waited a day to call the doctor to see if it would pass, but then I almost
passed out in a restaurant, so I knew it was not going to go away. I literally was lying on the table because I was so dizzy. I ended up
at the hospital the next morning to try and figure out what stomach bug I had. It was a terrible
experience. The hospital looks like a train station when you walk in, and there
were atleast 20 pigeons flying overhead crapping on everything. I waited half
an hour just to register, and then got sent upstairs to wait another 2 hours
for a doctor to see me. I may or may not have cried to the nurses a little bit
to expedite the process, and ended up in the pathology lab 15 minutes later
after a hellish experience in the hospital’s public bathroom, which had no soap
and no running water. They told me to come back the next day for the results,
which also made me mad because that meant another 24 hours of not leaving the
bathroom. Long story short, the results somehow came back negative and the PC doctor
ended up putting me on antibiotics, which were literally MIRACLE DRUGS. After 2
doses I felt so much better, just in the nick of time, because my friends from
school were arriving the afternoon I started my meds.
My friends Daina and
Jilli and Daina’s boyfriend Zach came to visit me for a week! I lived with
Daina and Jilli my senior year at Bucknell. Daina and Zach both live in Seattle
now, and Jilli lives in Switzerland. Because I had just been so sick, we
re-arranged our plans a little so that we went back to my village first instead
of trekking, since I was just starting to eat again. We had a nice teary
reunion at the airport, spent the evening catching up, and then headed to my
village the next morning. We got caught in an insane rain/hail storm while
getting back so we rolled up to my house soaking wet. Also a shipment of books for
the school from the states had just arrived at my local post office so we were
lugging that around in the rain as well. The next day we took a tour of my
village and I introduced them to people and showed them the collection center,
the school, and all the places I normally hang out. When we got back to my
house, my neighbor was having a puja for her 6 month old baby. When boys
turn 6 months old, and girls turn 5 months old, they have a ceremony where they
eat rice for the first time. Everyone gives the baby a bright red tikka on
their forehead and then feeds the baby rice. The rice is then wiped off the
mouth with money, sort of a good luck. Pretty sure the baby made more money
than me on my birthday. They made a huge feast, so Daina/Jilli/Zach got to
experience a lot of different Nepali foods, and Zach even tried the goat, which
he liked, even though he’s pretty sure there was a tongue on his plate. That
night there was the usual dancing and singing and partying late into the
evening. My village made my friends dance and in turn, we showed them some
American moves. Jilli and I busted out some partner swing dancing, and Zach
showed everyone the Bernie. It was great, and I’m glad they got to experience a
little of the culture.
Baby Riwaj |
Me, Daina, and Jilli in my village |
We headed back to Pokhara after 2 nights in my village and
then set off for our overnight trek! We trekked up to Panchase, about 6 hours
walk from Pokhara. We took a taxi for about an hour to the end of the lake, and
I’m actually surprised our taxi made it. It was the bumpiest hour ride I’ve
probably ever had, and we kept bottoming out in potholes. Once we reached a
small village called Ghattechinna, we set off! It was a beautiful little trek.
It was basically stone stairs the entire way so our muscles were burning, but
the scenery was great. We trekked through many different villages and I guess
word got out fast that a white girl could speak Nepali, because we reached a
village and sat down to take a break, and some lady was like “Oh, you live in
Syangja?” and I was like how in the hell do you know that. But apparently some
lady from a lower village had already told this village who we were. On our way
up we also got legitimately charged by a water buffalo. It was terrifying. We
were hiking up a particularly steep rocky section when we looked up and saw a
water buffalo charging down the hill. Then we quickly realized it was coming
straight for us so we ran screaming to hide under a huge boulder and had to grab
some big sticks and make a large circle to bypass the buffalo. Whats weird is
that water buffalo are normally pretty docile, so I concluded that this one had
rabies. The best part of this thing was 3 Nepali women standing high up on the
hill with baskets of grass on their heads watching 4 white people scream and
run around boulders to escape the buffalo. So that was a little bit of
excitement. We reached the top after about 6 hours, muscles aching, and were
greeted with absolutely no view whatsoever. The weather was pretty bad when my
friends were here, and it was so hazy that you couldn’t see any mountains at
all.
Our hostel was an interesting experience. We stayed in a
village called Bhanjyang at a little guest house called the Happy Heart Hotel.
The guests were quite an eclectic mix. Our next door neighbor was a white guy from
Zimbabwe and lit up approximately 4 joints in the 30 minutes we talked with
him. We met some Australians and Israelis as well. Everyone had dreadlocks and
was doing yoga, 2 things of which I know nothing about. I think some people had
been up there for a couple weeks, doing who knows what, as Bhanjyang was only
comprised of tiny guest houses. We ate some daal bhat and tea and passed out pretty
early as we were tired from our hike. We tried getting up at sunrise but went
back to bed after we saw how hazy it was. The hike down was super fast the next
day, only about 3 hours even with a stop for snack. All of us were really
feeling it in our knees and calves when we reached the bottom though. Its been
3 days and my calves are still extremely sore.
Jilli unfortunately had to fly out early, so we sent her
back to Switzerland, where she lives, and then I took Daina/Zach up to the
Peace Pagoda, where we had some beautiful views of the Annapurnas for a couple
hours. It was the only time that week that they came out from behind the clouds.
Jilli actually got a nice view of the mountains from the airport which was good,
and I’m glad she got a little peek at them before she left Nepal. Daina and
Zach and I spent the rest of the day hanging out and rowing a little boat
around the lake. Well Zach mostly did all the rowing, Daina and I attempted it
but failed. I sent them off to Kathmandu yesterday, and now I’m back in the
village writing this. I had such a good time with them and am so lucky to have
friends willing to come visit me all the way in Nepal! Thanks guys!
During this whole trip I also received 2 pieces of amazing
news. First, my grant finally got approved from USAID for my collection center,
which means we get $5000 to put towards construction and management training!!
This was fantastic because it had been in review with USAID for a while, so I
was nervous it wasn’t going to get approved. Also, if it wasn’t approved, that
would have meant that I would have had to hit up family/friends from donations,
something I wasn’t really looking forward to. I have a man coming from iDE Nepal (an organization
started by a RPCV in Nepal) next week to talk to my group about selling our
produce in larger bazaars, as well as figure out a time to hold a management
training so that my group can more effectively run our collection center once
it is completed. I think this next month will be pretty busy now that the money
should be here within the next 2 weeks. I have to get receipts and carefully
record everything we spend the money on, so its going to keep me busy.
The second piece of news is that my twin sister, Taylor, is
coming to Nepal for a whole month this summer! She’s getting her Master’s
degree at the Graduate Institute in Geneva, Switzerland in International
Relations right now. One of her friends there is Nepali, who happens to be from
a village 45 minutes away from me! Herself and 2 friends applied for and
received a grant to build a large library/multi media resource center in her friend’s
hometown, so she’ll be coming in either June or August to work on her project.
I can’t believe how close she’ll be to me, and I’m already looking forward to
seeing her and helping out with her work.
When I got back to my village yesterday from Pokhara, I had
numerous people ask me where I’ve been the past week and a half. My neighbor
even told me he thought I got lost. I was supposed to come home for 2 days in between
the triathlon and my friends coming, but because I was sick I ended up just
staying in Pokhara. It was nice to see everyone so concerned.
That’s about it from Nepal…the new Nepali year starts in 3
days, so I’m sure people will be celebrating. I’ll probably be in bed by 9. Its
going to be the year 2071! I don’t really have anything happening in the coming
months that I have to leave my village for, so I’m hoping to have some really
productive weeks in April/May. Check my facebook for more pictures from the triathlon and the trek!