RPCV Nepal (2012-2014) currently interning in Lusaka, Zambia with the State Department for the summer

Sunday, April 21, 2013

trekking, training, and being a tourist


The last 20 days have been quite the whirlwind of trekking, seeing friends from home, seeing PC friends, and spending 10 days receiving training in Pokhara. Now that I’m back at site I’m slowly adjusting back into my routine here and trying to process the last 20 days of essentially being a tourist and dealing with the difficulties that come after being away from my site for so long. I also found out about the Boston bombing 3 days after it happened which was shocking to say the least. Its never easy to find out big information like that when you are thousands of miles away from home. Sending all my love to friends in the Boston area, and am glad you guys are all safe now!

On March 31st, I set off for Pokhara laden down with my huge backpack, prepared for almost twenty days away from my site. My family was sad to see me go, and I had to assure them numerous times I would indeed be returning. I arrived in Pokhara sweaty from my long bus ride and wearing a dirty backpack with red tikka all over my forehead and stepped into the Shangri-La. Let me tell you, the Shangri-La hotel is extremely nice by Western standards, and for me, it was like stepping into this surreal world I hadn’t been a part of for many months. I wasn’t meeting my family friends for a couple hours so after calling numerous PC friends spazzing out about being surrounded by so many luxuries I finally calmed down and got myself a latte at the coffee shop and read my book by the POOL. Yes a pool. I could barely comprehend that I had woken up in my village that morning. I met the Wathen family and their friends who I would be trekking with later that afternoon and we enjoyed a really nice dinner at the hotel getting to know each other. The group was very diverse: all of the dads had met each other and their spouses while working in Taiwan, and one family lived in Shanghai, while the other lived in the Phillipinnes. The next 4 days were nothing short of amazing. We started off early for our trek the next morning and reached our first lodge at about midday. The lodge was beautiful and situated right along the river. Our whole group spent the afternoon exploring the river, reading in our rooms, and of course celebrating happy hour precisely at 5pm (which would become routine for us over the course of the trek). The food, company, everything was awesome. It was exactly what I needed after almost 7 months in the village. Our second day we hiked over 1000 vertical meters to the trekking village of Ghandruk. The hike was fairly exhausting as it was mostly stone steps the entire way up, but the views were amazing. The trekking company we were using actually owned the rights to the trail we were on so it was nice to just have our group, but once we joined up with the main trail there were tons of other trekkers and donkey trains going by. The second lodge at Ghandruk had the most spectacular views of the Annapurnas I have ever seen. Especially since I cannot see any mountains at my site it was breathtaking to wake up to crystal clear views of Annapurna and Machapuchhre right in front of me. The third day we left Ghandruk and hiked down to our third lodge, and I’m not joking, I had my own building to myself. Since everyone else either had a sibling to room with or a spouse, the lodge must not have had any more double rooms available so I literally got the honeymoon suite. Besides the king bed I slept in, there were 2 other beds in the room. I had a hammock on my front porch and I spent my hours after trekking reading and napping and just generally enjoying being in such good company. The last day we trekked about 3 hours out from the lodge where we got bussed back to Pokhara and spent a night before heading out on 2 days of rafting. 


That night I got to see ANOTHER friend from home, Shaffer. Long story short, Shaffer worked in Winthrop this summer at the bakery I frequented everyday, and while we never got past coffee shop chitchat, he met my sister after I left for Nepal, who told him I would be in Nepal for 2 years. Well wouldn’t you know, he was traveling to India and Nepal this spring as well! Small freaking world. Would have been really  nice to know these things before I left as we would have had lots to talk about! Anyways, Shaffer came out with the Wathens and me and the Brooks and Buckeridges and besides finding an entire bee in my pasta, the dinner was great.
The next day I set off for 2 days of rafting on the Seti River. The river is fairly low now because it’s the dry season, but our guide told us that the 4 hours it took to reach our camp would take only 45 minutes during the upcoming monsoon season. The camp was beautiful…it was designed to look like tents but inside were full beds and hot showers. That was my last night with the group, as the next day they would all be heading to Chitwan National Park and I would be returning to Pokhara for my In-Service Training. We spent hours around the fire that night giving “down-downs” where you tell a funny/embarrassing story about another on the trip and it was a great way to end the past 7 days. So, thank you SO SO SO much Wathen, Brooks, and Buckeridge family for adopting me into your little family during our time together, and I look forward to seeing you all again (Wathens I’ll see you back in snowy little Winthrop in December 2014).


I spent the next 8 or so days in Pokhara getting In-Service Training with the rest of my PC posse. I feel really exciting and refreshed after this training, as I feel like I have some concrete stuff to take back to site with me. We learned how to construct a solar food dryer, plastic tunnel housing for vegetables, how to make an improved cook stove (probably the coolest thing I learned about ), and all about micro-irrigation. Additionally, me and 3 other volunteers were chosen to serve on the Volunteer Advisory Committee (VAC) which basically means we help with communication between volunteers and PC staff, usually involving 3 or so meetings in Kathmandu a year. Since we’re brand new in Nepal, our first task is to design the bylaws for the upcoming VACs in Nepal. Anyways, with all the training we received and with VAC duties now, it should be an exciting next couple months! Our group will all be together again in July for a weeklong workshop in program design and management with Nepali counterpants. Besides training, us volunteers rang in the New Year (its 2070 now!) at a local bar, which was wild to say the least. We also randomly met up with SIT Nepal kids and it was awesome to talk to a couple of them because I did SIT Tanzania when I went abroad so it was cool to see where they were at in their program.

I left Pokhara feeling pretty refreshed but also a little anxious about returning to site, as I had been away for so long. I was excited to sleep in my own bed again and drink my family’s amazing tea though. Thankfully Shaffer came back with me for 5 days! It was so much fun showing someone around my home, and it was actually the first time anyone had seen my site. I enjoyed being a sort of tourist in my own home. The first day we went to a mothers group meeting and the second we hiked up to this temple that had amazing views of the valley I live in. Otherwise we spent our time playing lots of bananagrams, watching movies, and wandering around and just talking about everything. It was so nice to talk to someone who obviously understood my hometown and Seattle and who shared a love for the Pacific Northwest just like I do. It actually made me a little homesick! We got to witness some pretty crazy lightning/thunderstorms as well. A negative part of all this rain is that all the tarantulas are migrating inside, namely to my bedroom. Shaffer and I named a particularly large one in my bathroom Richard Nixon aka “Ricardo” so everytime we had to go to the bathroom we said we were visiting Ricardo. Anyways, if you know me at all, I hate spiders more than anything. Now that my mosquito net is up its ok but I can hear them scuttle across the newspaper that lines the walls of my bedroom. Theyre like freaking crabs and they all have these little things on their back that glow in the dark. Terrifying.  

Shaffer and I also walked down to the river, which I actually hadn’t done before, and I was so glad we did. There was a legit beach down there and we spent a couple hours just playing in the sand and relaxing. I’m really excited to have discovered a place where I could be alone if I wanted to and just go read a book or something.

Shaffer left yesterday, so I’m back to being alone, back to speaking pure Nepali. Its funny because having him here actually made me feel a lot more confident in my language skills as I had to do a lot of translation for him and my family. Its been raining almost straight for the past 24 hours so I’ve been hibernating in my room quite a book, reading a good new book, napping, and making posters for a presentation that I’m giving to my ag group tomorrow on micro irrigation. Making posters in Nepali script takes about 80 times longer than it would in English because my reading level is about 3rd grade level, but I’m proud with how they ended up, even though my little sister came by with my permanent marker and added some giant big periods at the end of each sentence. Tomorrow’s presentation will probably be a bit of a hot mess considering it will be my first real presentation but I’m excited to see how it turns out. I’m planning on just introducing the topic tomorrow and explaining it and then seeing if theyre interested and the hopefully planning another time where we actually construct the thing! Wish me luck, I’ll need it.

That’s all for now,
Alex



Saturday, April 6, 2013

Neha's morning walk


Neha’s morning walk. That’s what people in my village call my morning run. Every morning I get up and atleast 2 people are like “going for your morning walk?.” Yes sir, I sure am. I hope to god I accomplish something here in my 2 years that people remember me as more than just the crazy white girl who ran every morning. Even people I don’t know or have never seen before are like “oh yes, you are Neha…you run to Karmachor every day.” Karmachor is the village I usually run to everyday, but its around 5k away from my village, so its far enough away that people there don’t interact with me on a daily basis, so I usually get some weird looks. Whats also funny about running in Nepal is that most people think I am running to get somewhere, like I am running to town because I need to buy something there. So often times I will be running and people will be like “stop and rest and we will all walk back to Dimik together,” even though I explain im running for exercise. My favorite is when I’m pouring sweat and the sun is out and some old lady will tell me to come to her house to take a break and drink tea with her, even though its about 80 degrees out. Now that its full on summer here in Nepal, I’ve been restricted to running either before 9am or after 4pm. I tried running the other day at 1pm and it was horrible. I came back so red in the face afterwards my family wouldn’t let me sit in the sun the rest of the day. Anyways, that’s going good…I usually run for about 50-55 minutes each morning which is an accomplishment considering I did like 15 min my first day here.
coming back from my run on Holi day, where you get tons of colored powder thrown on you

I celebrated International Women’s Day last week with the women of my village. I went to a huge mother’s group program in a nearby village…there ended up being around 300 people there. It was pretty powerful to be around that many women giving speeches and chanting all at once. My village women and I trekked about 1.5 (all in saris, which are quite hard to walk in let me tell you) to get to the event, and we had drums and homemade signs and chanted the entire way there. I wore my sister’s sari for the event which attracted too much attention for my own liking, but everyone was happy that I wore it. I surprised the women of my village even further when I got up and danced with all of them while they were singing a song. This was a big deal for me. I hate dancing Nepali style, especially in front of that many people, but I decided to suck it up and just dance around like a fool in my sari. Then I gave a nice little speech in front of all these people, which surprisingly went fairly well. Let me tell you, anyone who is reading this blog who is thinking of applying to PC…you better get used to public speaking real fast. At least in Nepal, if you are white, you will be made to give a speech at every single event you attend. I’ve gotten used to it now, and I kind of have a little spiel I give, but it was really hard at first to talk on the spot to large crowds. Anyways, IWD was fun and I feel like I got to know the women of my ward a little bit better. Then I got home and realized I had the most awkward tan/burn lines from my sari.
Walking to the International Women's Day program

my ward at International Women's Day

Unrelated to this blog post, but I made compost tea at my site

my house!

Last week I got to run my entire Agriculture Service Center by myself! I don’t exactly know what my counterpart was thinking when he thought this was a good idea, but he assigned me the job anyways. He was away visiting his family, so I thought to myself “this will be fine, theres 3 other staff members at the ag center anyways, ill barely have to do much.” WRONG. No one showed up the 2 days I was there. Not one other staff member. The first day about 20 people came in asking me all sorts of questions I had no answers to, but I made quite a few new friends and a lady I met that day even called me that night to chat. Since I couldn’t give them answers to their ag questions, I decided to tell them my life story instead, which seemed to satisfy most of them. I also watched 5 episodes of Greys Anatomy in a row, leading to zero productivity on my Village Situational Analysis, which is the big report that is due to Peace Corps in 2 days.

Last week I was reading Oprah magazine on my bed (thank you US embassy employees) with my head facing the door and I saw something out of the corner of my eye. I looked up and A MONKEY WAS IN MY ROOM. The monkeys here aren’t tiny cute monkeys either, they are large and furry and have big teeth. I almost shit myself. Sorry for the visual, but it was such a frightening thing. The most frightening part of this encounter was that the monkey hesitated before leaving; it wasn’t exactly super scared of me screaming my head off at it. It left, but now Im too scared to ever hang out in my room with my door open again. Then again, one of my friends here found a python in her kitchen last week, so maybe having a monkey in my room wasn’t so bad after all.

We had “English day” today in the Panthi (my last name) household. This consisted of my older sister instructing me to only speak to her in English, which is super entertaining because we will be walking along and she’ll be quiet and then I’ll hear from behind me “Oh god, oh god its raining” or “My hair is very black.” I think after 2 years we will be able to converse. English day also consisted of my 9 year old sister running around saying “Welcome to toilet! Welcome to kitchen! Welcome to house! Welcome to room!” all day long. We have a ways to go there…. Also my 11 year old cousin came to visit last week with my family and I let him listen to my Ipod and before I knew it he was singing the explicit lyrics of Enrique Iglesias’s “Tonight I’m F*cking You” at the top of his lungs around the house. Probably for the best that most people in Dimik cant understand English… I’ve also been attempting to teach a little geography to my younger sisters as I realized it needed some work when I asked my younger sister where Nepal was on the world map and she pointed at Australia…I’m also in the early planning stages of painting a big world map at the local public school, which I hope to get up and running after my In-Service Training in a couple weeks.

And…for anyone who cares I discovered that the monkeys in my village are both rhesus macacques (very common) and gray langurs. The gray langur that came into our courtyard the other day was no joke, the size of a saint Bernard. I had never seen one around before either. It left pretty quickly after 2 dogs came to chase it. Hoping the next monkey I find in my room isn’t one of those…

Right now I’m in Pokhara for my In-Service Training with all of the other volunteers. I just got back from an amazing 5 days full of trekking and rafting with family friends from home so I will write all about that in my next blog!